How to Do Laundry in College When You Have Never Done It Before

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Laundry mistakes can ruin clothes. Here is how to avoid all of them on your first time.

Sorting Your Laundry

The most important sorting decision is separating colors from whites. Dark and bright colors — reds, blues, greens, blacks — can bleed dye onto lighter clothing in the wash, particularly in the first few washes of new items. Keeping your whites, light greys, and light pastels in a separate load from your darker items prevents the pink-shirts-that-were-white outcome that many first-time laundry operators experience.

The second sorting consideration is fabric type. Delicate fabrics — lingerie, silk, wool, and items labeled ‘hand wash’ or ‘delicate’ — should be washed separately from regular items or put in a mesh laundry bag and washed on the delicate cycle. Heavy items like towels and jeans take longer to dry and do not need the gentle treatment that lighter clothes require.

In practice, many students simplify to two loads: a darks load and a lights load. This is an adequate approach that prevents the most common color disasters without requiring elaborate sorting. Checking the care label on any item you are uncertain about tells you the specific requirements for that garment.

Washing Machine Settings

The two main settings you need to understand: water temperature and cycle type. Cold water is appropriate for the majority of your clothing — it preserves colors, is gentler on fabrics, and is more energy-efficient. Use warm water for heavily soiled items and bedding. Use hot water only for whites and towels that you specifically want to sanitize.

Cycle type: regular (or normal or cotton) for most everyday clothing, delicate (or gentle) for delicate items, and sometimes a heavy-duty setting for towels and heavily soiled work clothes. The cycle type affects how aggressively the machine moves the clothes — delicate cycles are gentler and prevent damage to fragile fabrics.

Detergent: use the amount specified on the detergent packaging for your load size. More detergent does not produce cleaner clothes — it produces excess suds that are harder to rinse out and can actually leave residue on clothing. Many people use significantly more detergent than necessary, which wastes money and is not more effective.

Drying Your Clothes

Check the care label of any item you plan to machine dry before putting it in. Some fabrics — wool, silk, rayon, certain synthetic blends, and many structured garments — should not go in the dryer because the heat shrinks them or damages the fabric. ‘Lay flat to dry’ or ‘dry clean only’ on a label means the dryer is not appropriate for that item.

For items that can be machine dried, use medium heat for most everyday clothing and high heat for towels and bedding. Avoid over-drying — remove items while they still have slight warmth and fold or hang immediately. Leaving clothes in the dryer after it stops leads to wrinkles that take significant effort to remove.

Items that should not go in the dryer should be laid flat on a clean surface or hung on a clothes horse or hanger to air dry. Hanging knitted items can distort their shape — lay these flat. Most items that cannot be machine dried are dry within a few hours in a reasonably aired indoor space.

Treating Stains

Treat stains as soon as possible — the longer a stain sets, the harder it is to remove. Blot liquid stains rather than rubbing, which spreads them and pushes them deeper into the fabric. Apply stain remover to the affected area before washing rather than hoping the regular wash cycle will remove it.

Different stains respond to different treatments. Blood is best treated with cold water (never hot — heat sets blood stains permanently). Oil and grease respond to dish soap applied directly to the stain. Protein-based stains (food, sweat) respond to enzyme-based stain removers. Wine and coffee respond to prompt blotting followed by cold water rinse and stain remover application before washing.

Building a Laundry Routine

The most common laundry failure among students is waiting until everything is dirty before doing laundry — which produces an overwhelming quantity of laundry when the need is urgent. A weekly laundry session on the same day prevents this accumulation and ensures a consistent supply of clean clothes without the emergency laundry experience.

Choosing a day and time when the laundry facilities are least crowded — typically weekday mornings or early afternoons rather than weekend evenings — reduces waiting time for machines and makes the process faster and less frustrating.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I wash my clothes?
T-shirts, underwear, and socks after each wear. Jeans and casual trousers every two to four wears depending on activity level. Sweaters and hoodies every two to four wears. Towels every three to four uses. Bedding every one to two weeks. These are guidelines rather than rules — visible soil, sweat, or odor are the clearest signals that something needs washing regardless of how many times it has been worn.
Will my clothes shrink if I put them in the dryer?
Natural fibers (cotton, wool, linen) are more susceptible to heat shrinkage than synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon, acrylic). The care label tells you whether machine drying is safe. When in doubt, use low heat or air dry. Garments that have been machine dried several times without shrinking are unlikely to shrink further under the same conditions.
How do I remove the smell from gym clothes?
Wash gym clothes promptly after use — allowing sweat to dry in the fabric sets the odor. Add a cup of white vinegar to the wash cycle for heavily odor-affected items — vinegar neutralizes odor rather than covering it. Do not use fabric softener on technical athletic fabrics — it coats the fibers in a way that traps odor rather than releasing it.
What happens if I wash something wrong?
For shrunken items: unfortunately most fabric shrinkage is irreversible. For bleeding colors: rewash the stained item immediately with color-safe bleach if the color is still wet. For delicate items damaged in the regular cycle: assess the damage — some is recoverable with gentle reshaping while damp, some is not. The most important lesson from a mistake is learning which items need which treatment for future reference.
Do I need fabric softener?
Fabric softener is optional — it makes clothes feel softer and reduces static, which some people value. It is not necessary for clothes to be clean. Do not use fabric softener on towels (reduces absorbency) or athletic wear (traps odor). For everything else it is a personal preference rather than a functional requirement.

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Theophilus Mburu
Written by Theophilus Mburu

Theophilus Mburu is a dedicated dentist and a contributing writer at Edunotes, bringing a unique blend of scientific insight and creativity to the blog. Beyond the clinic, he enjoys immersing himself in video games and exploring music, adding a fresh and relatable perspective to his content.

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